Hat pins represented the changing styles in women's fashions. Although hat pins first appeared in the 1850s, it wasn't until the late 19th century that they became widely manufactured.
The resource book by Lillian Baker begins with a brief introduction and states that “A hatpin was used to securely fasten a hat to the head of the wearer.” They measured from 4” to 12” in length and were worn from approximately 1850-1930. Because of the various sizes, it was common to have more than one of them. But while this was a functional item, it also enabled women to discard the bonnet strings (some felt it liberated them from apron strings as well) and adopt the masculine attire – the hat –as their symbol of equality.
Hatpins were not only utilitarian but were “also a jeweled accessory which surely was the most decorative and functional in the closet of women’s fashionable deceits.” There were actually laws written which governed the length of hatpins, how they could be worn and further restrictions placed upon them relative to public accomodations and transportation. A headline in 1910 created the “international hatpin crisis” and called them society’s newest and most dangerous lethal weapon. Another article in The Paris Mail of 1909 reported “From Illinois: To limit the length of women’s hatpins to nine inches, and make them take out permits for longer ones, just like all deadly weapons.” Laws began to require that all dangerous points of hatpins by covered by guards. Another story in London’s popular Daily Mail of 1908 printed a story about the jailed suffragettes. They were allowed to appear in court with hats, but without hatpins! The removal of hats was tantamount to a forfeiture of dignity for no lady would be seen bare-headed in public, no less a courtroom!