Articles

Button Shanks

Whether the buttons we fall in love with have beautiful or silly designs, they don't often tell us much about when the button was made, or what the material is. For the first few issues, we'll focus on learning more about what the backs of buttons can teach.

Spotlight on Celluloid

Celluloid, the earliest form of plastic, was developed in England in the mid 1800s, as scientists tried to find a way to copy ivory. It is often called "French Ivory" especially when it is used in a pale cream, or almost yellow, color, with lines that almost appear to be strata. Button hooks were made with celluloid "faux ivory" handles, as were fans and dresser sets. This celluloid was also used to make buttons called "Ivoroids" where a cutout of this material is placed like a silhoutte over a background, usually set in metal.

A piece of clear celluloid, now usually yellowed with age, frequently covered early lithographs in the 1800s. The shanks of these buttons are usually metal, usually self shanks.

This is an example of a lithograph under celluloid, front and back.

Later, metal shanks were inserted into the celluloid, as seen in the picture below. A metal shank like this doesn't help the owner identify celluloid as easily as the self shank and hump shanks that were used later, through the art deco period. Examples are also included in this picture.

These buttons have the distinctive shanks typical of most celluloid buttons, with the exception of the center button on the bottom, which has an embedded metal shank.

Of course, there are sew through buttons made of celluloid as well, and again, as with the metal shanks, they can be harder to identify. It's then that the very art-deco styling of the buttons is an easy giveaway to the material.

Not only are these designs typical of many celluloid buttons, but collectors know that very thin buttons are usually "Celluloid Wafers."

Finally, if looking at the button doesn't give you a clue, there is the "hot needle" test. One can heat a needle over a flame, then touch the back of the button with the needle. If the needle slips in, and gives off a strong smell (some describe it as smelling like VICKS VAPOR RUB, or camphor), it is likely celluloid. However, there are words of caution. First, celluloid is highly flammable, and it is easy for a red-hot needle to cause a button to burst into flames. Also, it's so soft when heated, the pin can easily pierce through the button, ruining it. So first, try taking a hard look at the back!

Editorial Viewpoint

A National Button Society Annual Convention

In August, I was able to go to Madison, Wis., for the 1997 National Button Society Annual Convention, and found my first convention to be an incredibly amazing event. I had joined my state club a few months earlier, so I was aware of the competitions, but I had no idea how wonderful the entries would be.

The showroom contained not only about 40 dealers offering fabulous buttons, but rows of trays that had been judged and were available for viewing. This was the most incredible aspect of the convention, because the entries were not only incredibly beautiful, with many unique or extremely rare buttons, but they were also very educational. It was amazing to see the various buttons group by color, or classification, or motif, whatever the particular award had called for.

For example, one award was offered for a tray of 25 buttons pertaining to fishing, with a limit of three ship buttons. I stood, looking at the first place tray, and noticed one realistic button, in the shape of a tiny ruler. I didn't really understand what that had to do with fishing, until I looked at the caption, which read, "A very small ruler for measuring very big fish." I started laughing, and looked more closely. There was another button that appeared to have an arrow that pointed to "Truth" or "Lie" and it was labeled "A lie detector for all those fish stories." Of course, there were also some lovely buttons, including a scrimshaw button and many others with fish, men fishing, and ships bringing in their nets full. I was so happy to see a fascinating tray of buttons, united by a person with a sense of humor.

The very old buttons were also amazing. A competition for fans, or people holding fans, was won by Dr. Stefan Schiff, who is a member of my club in Northern Virginia. On his tray, he had included one button that I really liked, an en grisaille button depicting a French couple, carrying fans. Dr. Schiff had recently given a lecture on enamels at a club meeting, so I was able to really appreciate the details of the button.

Shopping was incredible, and I spent more than twice what I planned to spend. I saw so many incredible buttons that it was hard to limit myself, but although I couldn't bring home everything, I was able to bring home enough so that I will never forget my first chance to attend a National Convention. And now, as I look at the carved ivory whippet head button that was my favorite purchase, I look forward to attending future competitions, and entering my own trays.

While seeing the winning trays was really fascinating, I also learned from seeing the occasional measle (a dot indicating that one button on a tray does not meet the requirements of the award for which it is entered). That indicates that we are all still learning!

Seeing hundreds of people who shared an appreciation for buttons, and meeting dozens of people I had only met on line, was a great deal of fun, and I would strongly urge people to join Nationals, become eligible for competitions, and give it a try!

URL: http://www.tias.com/articles/buttons