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Button Dictionary, Page 2


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E

EGLOMISE ...  Type of reverse painting on glass: gold was laid on the reverse side of the glass piece, the design was cut out of the gold, and then the whole back of the glass piece was covered with black.

EMAUX PEINTS ...  See ENAMEL.

EMBEDDED SHANK ... 
embedded.jpg

ENAMEL ...  There are several types of enamel procedures found on buttons. They include:

  • Basse-taille: Metal engraved with a design (usually a geometric, such as radiating lines or elaborate circles in circles) so when a layer of enamelling is applied over the top, the design shows through. This is sometimes by itself, or may have emaux peints over it.
    basse.jpg
  • Champlevé: When people got tired of doing all the work with the little wires in the cloisonné technique, they started stamping out the design from the back, so that there are little pools, but without any addition of wires. You can spot this because from the front it LOOKS like cloisonné, but on the back, you can see the indentations.
  • Cloisonné: Metal wires are affixed to the button front to form little pools for the enamel to sit in. can be a pictorial or a simpler design. The back of the button is usually smooth. Very old technique...
  • Emaux Peints: Painted (as with a scene, or flowers, or whatever) painted on the enamel.
    enamel.jpg
  • En Grisaille: Literally, "in grays." The button was painted with white enamel, then black. Finally in areas, the black was removed, letting the white show through.
    engrissaile.jpg
  • Limoges: French artists 16th and 17th Centuries introduced us to this whole scene technique. Colors were contrasting... dark and light laid side by side with no metal dividers. The enamel was thickly built up in many layers over the base of copper.
  • Plique-á-Jour: Enamelling between open spaces... imagine a stained glass button. Now instead of glass, picture enamel. That's plique-á-jour!

EN GRISAILLE ...  See ENAMEL.

ESCUTCHEON ... 
escutch.jpg
Term used to describe a metal ornament applied to the center of a button and almost always they will be applied by way of one or two pins going through the button and bent down on the back. These metal designs, in shapes as varied as stars, heads, animals, or even complete scenes were attached to virtually all button materials including wood, shell, all the plastics, bone, vegetable ivory, glass, metal or composition.

F

FIMO ...  See polymer clay.

FOPS ... 
fops.jpg

4 WAY BOX SHANK ...  See thread grooves.

G

GALALITH ...  Another name for casein.

GIN BARI ... 
ginbari.jpg
A Japanese term used for a type of enamel. They are enameled over etched foil, sometimes in conjunction with a cloisenné technique.

GINGHAM ... 
ging.jpg

GOLDEN AGE ... 
gold.jpg goldb.jpg

GOOFIES ...  A term coined by collector Dorothy Foster Brown for realistics. "The more frivolous types of modern buttons, that word "Goofy" popped into my head and it seemed to fill the bill. The buttons are gay, colorful, irresponsible, and amusing, the antithesis of all things serious or dull." See realistics.

H

HABITAT ... 

HAIR ...  Hair pieces have been around since the early 18th Century and were highly thought of until the 1890's and early 1900's. Early pieces were hair pictures and were indeed made as mourning pieces from hair of the departed loved one. Hair jewelry came into fashion in the late 1700's. Many pieces were "baby pieces," made into lockets and other jewelry for the mothers as gifts from the fathers.

At the same time, horse hair buttons were made as tuft buttons on horsehair furniture and carriage throws (blankets). Horsehair was one of the most popular materials on furniture of the period. Victorian until the early 1900's. These buttons were small to very large in size. The hair in these buttons is much more coarse than human hair. These buttons were often molded, and then covered. There were those which were mounted in horn or other materials depending upon how fancy the furniture was.

HORN ...  Horn buttons were generally made from a soupy mixture (slurry) of hooves, horns, and water. The mixture was poured into molds, then allowed to harden. Sometimes a dye was added, with black and red being the most common colors. They may have pickmarks or backmacks. These are "molded" or "pressed horn" though there were buttons made from carving horn or antlers, and these are referred to as "carved horn."
horn.jpg


If you've got a button definition to add or modify, or you have a picture that we can use, please e-mail us!


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Button Bytes Light - Dictionary, Page 2
Last Updated March 14, 1999
Web Page by Cecile T. Kohrs & Jeff Wright (wyeknott@pop.dn.net)
Copyright © 1999, All Rights Reserved
URL: http://www.tias.com/articles/buttons