The CuffLinker July 2005
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Eventually, I'll get on track issuing these newsletters in the correct month. Oh well, time can be flexible. The Cuff Linker is a free monthly newsletter about cuff link collecting. Our goal is :
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to provide original articles about how to enjoy both the collecting and wearing of cuff links, and -
to supply up to date information based on reliable sources.
This issue contains short articles on major American jewelry designers that produced many cuff links, one being one of the top fine jewelry names and a California studio jeweler. Please provide me with suggestions of makers that should be profiled in the future as well as any types of cuff links you would like to see examined. |
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David Webb is probably the foremost American jewelry designer. His impact on the jewelry business can best be summed up by a statement in the 90s by Hidalgo, a multiple winner of the Jewelers of America Jewel Award when he said "Webb was, I think, the most prolific designer of this century and I think unequaled."
David Webb grew up in Asheville, North Carolina which has a long arts and crafts tradition. He started work in his uncle’s silver factory at age 14 and left to seek his dreams in New York three years later.
Once in New York, his design flair eventually became apparent and, in 1948, he was able to team up with Nina Silberstein, an accountant, who raised the funds needed to start the business and then ran the business so Webb could concentrate on design. Nina and her family still run the David Webb Company today.
Webb is known as a designer that took chances and worked with a variety of unusual materials. While his cuff links do not reflect the breath of materials used in other jewelry, they do reflect the spectrum of designs. Webb drew many of his designs based on nature, (top right) some, like this nautilus, fairly realistic, and others, like his enamel animals, being more whimsical. His best seller is probably the green frogs, but he used many colors with my particular favorites being the red frogs and the blue lions.
Webb also found inspiration in the many ancient designs. You can find pieces reminiscent of ancient Egypt, Greece and Japan. He sometimes used the Japanese mixed metal concept, the type used for a Samurai’s armor, in cuff links (bottom right)
Webb’s effect on style was best stated by Hollywood Stylist Anna Roth when she said "It’s not only quality of the workmanship, which is impeccable, The pieces are bold and unique. When you want to make an elegant statement you can count on David Webb."
Yes, David Webb cuff links are bold, and to me, fun. They are excellent for that elegant statement, but are not for the faint of heart. |
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Esther Lewittes was a Los Angeles based studio silversmith with her own store in Melrose. She is best known for restrained three dimensional designs (left) For many years, her pieces were included in the Pasadena Art Museum’s California Design exhibits.
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Esther Lewittes grew up in New York and probably match her parents’ desires when she graduated from Columbia University’s Teachers’ College. However, it appears in planning for her own future, while at Columbia, she studied design at the Art Students League and jewelry making with a Cartier staff jeweler. Her zaniness and creativity probably would have made a great kindergarten teacher, but would have be stifled teaching anything else. Many of Lewittes pieces are geometric patterns, with some appearing to be geometric with an attitude. (right) Her quirkiness, couple with fine workmanship, make her pieces great for a collection and eminently wearable. |
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It is now a hot summer day in July, certainly not the ideal time to put on a double-cuff shirt with cuff links and go out for a walk. However, it is still a great time to think about one’s cuff link collection and what new cuff links, and shirts, one would like for the Fall and Winter. Personally, I expect to go over what is in my own jewelry box and by September, I would not be surprised if there is some migration back and forth between my own jewelry box and what is in Captain Huck’s showcase.
I look forward to hearing from all those interested in cuff links, especially those of you who might wish to provide articles for The Cuff Linker. I’m looking for stories involving favorite cuff links, wonderful cuff link stories and articles about cuff link collecting areas.
The overall purpose of this newsletter is to keep bring to you a few unusual cuff links, sometimes provide good information on makers and issues and to help keep the fun in wearing and collecting cuff links. Please let me know if there are particular makers or designs that you would like to see featured in future issues.
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If you want more information on David Webb, or see some of the companies other pieces, their site is http://www.davidwebb.com please note that their basic cuff links, even though little of David Webb produces can be classified as basic, start at $3,000 a pair.
For anyone wondering how Gene and Pat Klompus are doing since selling the National Cuff Link Society, check out their website http://www.justcufflinks.com Drop them a note. |
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I like to have both sides of my cuff finished but have difficulty with traditional double-sided cuff links. Any suggestions?
Answer: I, too, have several pair of double-sided cuff links that I like to wear, but, due to the aggravation factor, will only put them on when my wife is available to assist. However, don’t despair as there are several other types of cuff links that manage to finish both sides of the cuff without the hassle of the traditional chain connected double-sided ones. If you like enamels, there are many Scandinavian pieces that utilize what I term the Scandinavian toggle, since it is the type usually found on pieces made in all four Scandinavian countries. These toggles slide through the cuff and then swings open to reveal a finished side.
In fine jewelry, you have pieces, like the David Webb discussed above, that have a similar, but smaller finished piece for the inside. Also, there are the Cartier-style wraps that have a bar that goes through the button hole and locks into the other side of the cuff links, not just finishing the inside of the cuff, but the entire cuff.
Finally, there are the barbell cuff links that just slide through with a similar round end piece on both sides (right bottom) I often question calling this style barbell as the shank does not appear to me to equal the bar for a true barbell, but are closer in size to ones used as dumbbells. However, I guess wearing a pair of barbell cuff links sounds better than wearing a pair of dumbbells. I suspect for the same reason all the gyms now use the term free weights.
With cuff links, as with anything, find what you like which won’t loss its appeal due to aggravation and enjoy to the fullest.
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If you have questions about cuff links or cuff link collecting, please send an e-mail to Huck@Tias.com I will not respond to questions solely about value. For an estimate, check with a local appraiser or auction houses or, on the web, try http://www.kovel.com for a price book or for online appraisals, not affiliated with Kovel, http://www.collectingchannel.com/cMart/cesATEIndex.asp or http://www.whatsitworthtoyou.com/Tias.htm
Thank you for reading! Please feel free to forward this to a friend.
Paul G. Huck
email:  Huck@Tias.com
website: http://captainhucksbooty.com |
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